Lodge Review: Vumbura Plains North, Okavango Delta, Botswana

Concealed among the trees at the edge of a private lagoon, where elephants, red lechwe and hippo freely come and go, sits Vumbura Plains North.

The Wilderness camp hangs over the floodplain, with a timber walkway connecting 14 rooms to the central communal space, which is comprised of a dining area, bar and lounge. A second lounge protrudes out and hovers above the lagoon, providing the perfect setting to watch the natural rhythms of the bush while enjoying a pre-game drive breakfast or an evening cocktail.

Vumbura Plains North re-opened in April 2022 after an extensive refurbishment of both the camp’s exteriors and interiors, taking its design cues from the Delta to dress the camp in hues of blue and green. Charcoal-coloured mosquito nets and window screens, and black fixtures complete the contemporary look. 

The camp itself sits far north in the Okavango Delta within the 60 000-hectare Vumbura Protected Wildlife Area, which is leased from the five surrounding villages. Wilderness has a close working relationship with these communities, recruiting nearly all its camp staff from them as well as developing commercial partnerships designed to minimise human-wildlife conflict.

For instance, Wilderness supports farmers in running commercial beehives, a natural elephant deterrent, and then buying the resulting honey at a premium to use in the camp’s kitchen. Women regularly visit the camp, usually at high tea, to demonstrate traditional basketweaving techniques, with their handiwork available for sale to guests.

The camp is makes smart use of solar panels and treated water systems. Food is flown in from Maun as plants, like fruits, vegetables and herbs, are not permitted to be grown within the reserve.

The camp is a short drive across from Jao Airstrip, which is accessed via a light plane from Maun. On my visit, we stopped to watch a pride of lions lounging by a rivulet and enjoy sunset cocktails before arriving at camp after dark to find an inviting fire waiting for us in the outdoor lounge.

On Safari

Like its sister camp, DumaTau, Vumbura Plains North offers a mix of land-based and aquatic safari experiences. The herbaceous fragrance of sage is forever associated with my early mornings at the camp, waking before the sun to enjoy breakfast around the fire and then trundling into Wilderness’ custom-made Landcruisers for a morning of exploration, never knowing what we’ll find.

Wilderness’ game drives can accommodate seven guests and a driver. The vehicles are spacious and comfortable, and the padded armrests and camera rests are thoughtful additions for budding wildlife photographers. When not in use, cameras and lenses can be stowed securely in the storage boxes next to my seat.

On safari, the company’s policy is to have a maximum of two vehicles at any sighting (exceptions allowed for extra rare sightings), so guides work collaboratively to share their findings and make sure all guests get a chance to enjoy time with wildlife.

I count myself lucky when we’re treated to dozing lions, buffalo, elephants and warthogs, who scatter as our vehicle tumbles along the dusty trails. Another highlight was the mokoro safari, an essential experience for any visit to the Okavango Delta. Taking a seat in the fibreglass canoe, my guide poles me along a peaceful (and hippo free) waterway while regaling me with stories of his childhood and observations of the bush. At one point, he stops and pulls a reed out of the water that he then fashions into a wristband and necklace for me. Returning to where we started, we find a surprise bar has been set up along the banks just in time for sunset.

Typically, guests will enjoy two game drives each day, one in the morning and a second in the late afternoon.

Lodge experience

Vumbura Plains North has 14 elevated rooms, all set facing the floodplains where you might see elephants grazing in the reeds or red lechwe bounding through the shallow water.

A timber boardwalk leads me to my expansive, free-standing suite. Through the front door I find my own private deck, with a shaded outdoor lounge and a plunge pool with excellent views over the plains. Secure sliding doors take me into my studio-style room, which is comprised of a sunken lounge, Queen sized bed with mosquito nets, a bar (stocked with water and deliciously addictive dried mango), and rainfall shower. A workstation is tucked in behind the bed head and the toilet is separated. Out the other side of my room is a private outdoor shower.

Wi-Fi is available in my room but not in the common areas, which I liked as it encouraged guests to mingle rather than look at their phones. In my wardrobe I find a torch, binoculars, insect repellent, yoga mat, and walkie talkie in case I need help at night. Guests are not allowed to travel between the communal areas and their rooms from 6pm-6am as wildlife, including hippo, cross the walkways to access the lagoon.

The dining experience

Hot, thirsty days mean the decision to focus on light, plant-based food is very welcome. Some of the kitchen’s ingredients are sourced locally thanks to partnerships with community farmers.   

Breakfast is typically served at camp before dawn, and I can pack a little goodie bag to take with me if I might get hungry later in the morning. Later, I return to camp after our morning game drive to a delicious lunch where I can choose between a handful of options for starter, main and dessert. I opt for the beef fillet and a home-made apple crumble.

A high tea is served at 4pm every day in the common area with a rotating selection of sweet and savoury treats. Like lunch, there are options to choose from at dinner and I go for the grilled lamb with vegetables and a chocolate fondant for dessert. 

All meals and drinks are included as part of your stay, and the kitchen can cater to all dietary requirements.

Overall experience

The moment I arrived into camp at dusk to find a blazing fire and hippo grunting in the lagoon is a memory that will stay with me forever. It perfectly encapsulates Vumbura Plains North’s blend of luxury and intimate wildlife viewing.

For more on Vumbura Plains North, visit wildernessdestinations.com/africa/botswana/okavango-delta/vumbura-plains-camp or book with Bench Africa.

For more information on Botswana, visit our Focus On: Botswana feature.

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About the writer

Justin Meneguzzi is an Australian writer and photographer with a fondness for rugged places who reports on travel and conservation. When he’s not photographing polar bears, lions and wolves, he’s at home wrangling his equally wild toddler.

The writer travelled as a guest of Bench Africa. All words and opinions are of the writer and have not been changed for publication.